"OUT OF AFRICA"........once upon a time.- Part 3

.........Continued

Our first visit to Swaziland was when my husband presented credentials to King Mswati 111. It was an enchanting experience and very unlike other occasions in world capitals. I was fortunate to be present and had the unforgettable experience of meetingthe Queen mother.
King Mswati111 sat on a throne dressed in his ceremonial leopard skin robes adorned by multicoloured beads and a crown of ostrich feathers while his council of Ministers sat on plush red velvet carpets all dressed in their costumes of hides and feathered head gear. Prior to our entry into the hall we could hear the loud beating of the drums and a torrent of chanting in Swazi language. As we entered, the chanting became louder as the announcer began to narrate the valiant exploits of the king who had vanquished various wild beasts and was the sole protector of his land and people.This was ofcourse conveyed to us by the interpreter. At intervals the council of Ministers would chorus " Ye - Bo " meaning YES ! And thump their spears in unison. This went on for a full five minutes I felt like I was on the sets of some Hollywood movie like "Kng Solomon's Mines"
.......I found it hard to come to terms with this scenario in the 20th century and marveled at how reel life had turned into real life before my eyes !
My husband was escorted to a seat near the king and two ladies-in-waiting came and directed me to an adjacent large hall where there was a similar scene.
This time it was the turn of the ladies. The Queen Mother sat on her throne and all around her on carpets laid on the floor sat her ladies-in-waiting. They began to sing in praise of the Queen Mother whom they revere as the "She Elephant" the symbol of feminity. Her impressive girth made her title very apt, for she towered over her young subjects assembled there. She was in her early sixties I gathered and had a beatific smile. I had to walk the narrow pathway between the two sections of her ladies-in-waiting seated on the floor and I must admit I felt quite self conscious as I approached and curtsied as best as I could in my Kanchipuram saree! The lady protocol officer had briefed me about this custom; definitely old British influences , I thought. She asked me to greet according to our Indian custom too and I followed with our traditional namaste. I was accorded a seat near Her Majesty who was in her royal best outfit of bearskin and huge assortment of beaded accessories.
We conversed with the help of an interpreter. Her Majesty wanted to know from which part of India I came from, what is the significance of wearing the Bindi, how the saree is draped and all about our marriage customs and varieties of food. After a while she switched over to perfect English to my surprise and very soon we were chatting like next door neighbours! She told me about her Arthritis and enquired about our Ayurvedic system of medicine. Noting my bemused expression when she started in English, she explained that she had her schooling in England but customs and traditions have to be maintained and guarded fiercely lest identity is lost in today's fast developing world. She presented me with exquisite handicrafts made of soap stone and hand made candles, which I treasure to this day. As I left, I felt I had just had apleasant chat with my aunt back home. The pomp and ceremony and the rituals made her appear like some formidable personality, while in fact she was a very friendly and motherly human being and that perhaps was the secret of the Queen Mother's enduring popularity.
The women of Swaziland value beads more than gold and diamonds in spite of the internationally renowned De Beers diamond mines located next door in South Africa. During their traditional ceremonies they wear their bear skin apparels in an off shoulder kind of style with beads as accessories and sport their bee-hive hair-do in a unique style suited for their frizzy hair texture.They will also wear stilettos and carry handbags from Milan or Paris ...a Gucci or a Dior with equal aplomb ! It is an intriguing mix of western colonial heritage and pride and confidence in their own deep rooted culture that makes them so unique a nation In the work a day world ofcourse they wear western apparel.
.............Continued

Dear Chechi,

As I began reading this episode, I was glad about one thing that this was long back and the animal activists wouldnt take offense to the leopard skin and ostrich feathers.(Menaka Ji I hope youre not listening)
I can imagine the whole scene in front of me the regalty and royalty,Oh yes it does look like the sets of a film on King Solomon!

I wish you had the pictures of you with the majesty and the Queen, though I guess with you in it we would wonder who the real Queen is!!

Their attire sounded totally fusion with beads and Gucci, some old some contemporary.
All this experience in travelling must have definitely made you very multiligual ,I am sure!!

Enjoyed this piece too. Very well written , so meticulously explained .Great work Chechi!!

Love,
Devikutty

Dear Paulina
Your way of writting is just great dear reading your post it takes us with you as if I am standing with you and going through all the events that you have described right in front of our eyes.
Do your have any photos of these events would love to see you more eagerly now.
Enjoyed all your 3 parts will read the next one tomorrow.
It is nice to know all these things still goes on.
Thanks dear for sharing your experiences with us all.........
Great going keep it up............

My dear Devikutty,

Replying to yours ...part by part !

The African continent as a whole lays a great store by animal skins and hides.
Ofcourse if our Maeka ji was around she would have called in the firing squad and
screamed "Shoot their heads Off " a la the Queen of Spades in Lewsis Carol's "Alice in Wonderland" who loved to shout " Off with their heads!"
Many years ago before we were posted there it was customary for the Foreign Office to present outgoing Ambassadors with Zebra skins as farewell gifts. A number of countries politely declined ( India too...Maneka ji can be at peace) and suggested that they be given other handicrafts in wood or stone.Yet the Ambassadors of many African nations used to accept the zebra skin as in their culture it is a matter of great honour.We still have all the lovely woodden artefacts from Mozambique and soap stone pieces from Swaziland.
All the skins and hides that they use in Swaziland are only for ceremonial occasions .In the daily work a day world many have switched over to western attire.
Their other national dress is made of cloth in bright colours, which several officials wear even today.
It is only in Swaziland that one finds this deperate almost obsessive need to cling to their age old practices.We've visited Zimbabwe and Kenya which is very British. Why even the landscape and climate is like that of the English country side.The British influence is so predominant...All prim and propah !!

WArm regards
PAULINA

Aruna Habibi,

Shokran jazeelan !!
Glad to know you liked reading the African experience.
Yes, even for me now it seems like a beautiful dream. That was so many years ago 1987-1990.We never had these lovely little digital cameras then and all we have are albums and albums of photo prints .I've no clue as to how to get them across anyway.
Now that we're retired we have our memories and loads of pictures and video cassettes of our various adventures in foreign lands and these keep us company as we sit "nodding by the fire " or I should say " by the Air Conditioner" in the sweltering summer heat of the month of May in Chennai.

warm regards
Rani Paulina Amma

Hello friends
these are some pictures of King Mswati111
I couldn't get the Queen mother photos sorry for that
i wanted to put choice pick of the king but sorry can't do that I will be kicked out...hehehe
Paulina how do these girls walk topless

Dear Queeny,


Now I am really being your Stalker, but I knew there must be something very interesting here.I am sure Chechi would agree.Hey Queeny its good you decided before time against being kicked out.

Your questions are really quite intriguing!!

Love,
Devika

Aruna Habibi,

You have finally sniffed out something from researching for the lovely pictures you posted! I did not want to mention this topless bit lest the censor board come chasing me with hammer and tongs !

During the REED DANCE alone you will find this Topless Scene.As I wrote, during their daily work a day lives they all wear western clothes.

Now you know how this adds to the Touristic Attraction.But let me add here that the amount of accessories thay wear covers most of the "top less " area , but when they start their dancing then ofcourse its a free for all view....if you are bold enough you can look ...otherwise look away !! frankly, those of us with daughters felt kind of depressed at this whole exercise.There is something so sad about the whole drama they stage every year ...the girls seem like herds of cattle and they come in such huge numbers.We were told that the choosing of the bride is done confidentially by the elders of the clan who go around scouting even in girls schools it seems.THe final show is only a farce. One can imagine all the clandestine operations that must be growing through each year for so and so's daughter to get chosen ! The King will have his favourite wife and she alone will accompany him officially.
Thanks again for the pics...so very thoughtful of you!
warm regards
PAULINA

Thanks for the explaination Paulina when I saw the picture I was just shocked as they were so good looking and educated girls, a hugh group of girls all dancing around Through your post i really learnt a lot about Africa which I was not aware of.

Oh so you reentered the sets of hollywood!!!
Thats nice to know. But the amazing part is like Indians, the Swazi also wish to maintain their traditions and cultures. A great write up about your encounter with the Queen Mother.

Originally Posted by Paulina

.........Continued

Our first visit to Swaziland was when my husband presented credentials to King Mswati 111. It was an enchanting experience and very unlike other occasions in world capitals. I was fortunate to be present and had the unforgettable experience of meetingthe Queen mother.
King Mswati111 sat on a throne dressed in his ceremonial leopard skin robes adorned by multicoloured beads and a crown of ostrich feathers while his council of Ministers sat on plush red velvet carpets all dressed in their costumes of hides and feathered head gear. Prior to our entry into the hall we could hear the loud beating of the drums and a torrent of chanting in Swazi language. As we entered, the chanting became louder as the announcer began to narrate the valiant exploits of the king who had vanquished various wild beasts and was the sole protector of his land and people.This was ofcourse conveyed to us by the interpreter. At intervals the council of Ministers would chorus " Ye - Bo " meaning YES ! And thump their spears in unison. This went on for a full five minutes I felt like I was on the sets of some Hollywood movie like "Kng Solomon's Mines"
.......I found it hard to come to terms with this scenario in the 20th century and marveled at how reel life had turned into real life before my eyes !
My husband was escorted to a seat near the king and two ladies-in-waiting came and directed me to an adjacent large hall where there was a similar scene.
This time it was the turn of the ladies. The Queen Mother sat on her throne and all around her on carpets laid on the floor sat her ladies-in-waiting. They began to sing in praise of the Queen Mother whom they revere as the "She Elephant" the symbol of feminity. Her impressive girth made her title very apt, for she towered over her young subjects assembled there. She was in her early sixties I gathered and had a beatific smile. I had to walk the narrow pathway between the two sections of her ladies-in-waiting seated on the floor and I must admit I felt quite self conscious as I approached and curtsied as best as I could in my Kanchipuram saree! The lady protocol officer had briefed me about this custom; definitely old British influences , I thought. She asked me to greet according to our Indian custom too and I followed with our traditional namaste. I was accorded a seat near Her Majesty who was in her royal best outfit of bearskin and huge assortment of beaded accessories.
We conversed with the help of an interpreter. Her Majesty wanted to know from which part of India I came from, what is the significance of wearing the Bindi, how the saree is draped and all about our marriage customs and varieties of food. After a while she switched over to perfect English to my surprise and very soon we were chatting like next door neighbours! She told me about her Arthritis and enquired about our Ayurvedic system of medicine. Noting my bemused expression when she started in English, she explained that she had her schooling in England but customs and traditions have to be maintained and guarded fiercely lest identity is lost in today's fast developing world. She presented me with exquisite handicrafts made of soap stone and hand made candles, which I treasure to this day. As I left, I felt I had just had apleasant chat with my aunt back home. The pomp and ceremony and the rituals made her appear like some formidable personality, while in fact she was a very friendly and motherly human being and that perhaps was the secret of the Queen Mother's enduring popularity.
The women of Swaziland value beads more than gold and diamonds in spite of the internationally renowned De Beers diamond mines located next door in South Africa. During their traditional ceremonies they wear their bear skin apparels in an off shoulder kind of style with beads as accessories and sport their bee-hive hair-do in a unique style suited for their frizzy hair texture.They will also wear stilettos and carry handbags from Milan or Paris ...a Gucci or a Dior with equal aplomb ! It is an intriguing mix of western colonial heritage and pride and confidence in their own deep rooted culture that makes them so unique a nation In the work a day world ofcourse they wear western apparel.
.............Continued