[saheli3]

Hi Saroj,

Welcome to IL.

Please search for Kowl Salwar in this thread, where I have posted the draft for Kowl (dhoti) salwar. There is also a draft for the patiala salwar in this thread.

Please go through the thread carefully.

Hope this is helpful.

[vjbunny]

helo madam i want to know the cutting and drafting of pleated patiala (it is called dhoti pant of 4mts ) pls help me
i am regularly reading all ur instructions and learnt so many things of stitching but i don't now this salwar also i want to know the cutting of gather slawar pls show me that salwar also.

Hi Saroj,
Youcan find Youtube entry at
YouTube - Dhoti Shalwar Technique

and at IL thread,
Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instructions

Hope This helps.......Also please share your stitching experiences here

[lovers]

take a old chudi which is in perfect size remove all stitches place this bits on ur material and draw leaving 1/2 to 1 inch gap. then stitch in machine.

good idea... should benefit the one who doesnt know stitching

[gemofaperson]

Hey Guys,

I am new to sewing with just some basic knowledge...It would be of great help if one of u sisters would help me start up on how to sew a chudidhar top....I know the answers is somewhere in this thread...it is ju that everything is e verywhere n i am all confused.

Please do not feel that it is redendant and guide me on how to sew a Chudidhar top.

Thank You.

[vjbunny]

Hi Gem.....
You can find tutorials in this link

Cute Confessions of Sew Addict: Tutorials - Enjoy!

[sarojshivanand]

helo mam,
can i get the drafting and cutting instruction of chudidar with lots of pleats at the bottom
please fullfill my need.
thnk u so much

[Oceangem]

hi,

Measurement for Salwar bottom

Length - x (Take measurement from where you tie the knot till your desired length)

Seat - y (Around the seating area, hope you understand)

Leg Bottom round - approx 20"

Waist Band Length - 8" to 10"

0 to 1 - Length (-) waist band length+4" or 6" or 2" (can keep canvas for the bottom if you need)

0 to 2 - 1/3 seat (-) waist band length + 2"

2 to 3 - 1/3 seat + 2"

0 to 4 - 1/3 seat + 2"

1 to 5 - 1/2 leg bottom round + 1"

5 to 6 - 4"-3.5" or 6"-5.5" or 2"-1 .5" (According to 0 to 1 measurement)

3 to 7 - 3"

Waist Band

0 to 1 - Waist Band length + 2"

1 to 2 - Seat + 4"

0 to 3 - Seat + 4"

See the attachment for how to draw, cut and stitch.

Now that I have given you the measurements and the foldings before you cut. For stitching you need a separate session which you can do only on somebody's supervision. If you can do it by yourself, it is fine.

regards,

Vanaja

Hello. I am trying to understand how to position and cut the kameez on a rectangular piece of fabric. What I mean is, with the help of a rectangular diagram could you kindly help me understand where exactly the body part and more importantly the full-length-sleeves will be positioned for drawing/cutting? I want to have some embroidery done on the fabric and need this info to plan the positioning.

[zana]

Thank you for the great information you provided on this thread. I have been stitching for a while but have problems with the sleeves fitting into the armholes. I used your formula, adding 0.5" to the armhole to get the sleeve width but still have problems with the fit.

Kindly tell me what measurement you use for the across front at the chest is it 1/4 chest + 1" or 1.5" or that does not matter when you draft the sleeve.

Thanking for your help.
shahzana

....forgot to tell about the sleeve,

whatever formula u apply for armhole, add 0.5" to get the sleeve width. Length of sleeve is y'r requirement/.

sabairi

[canreachus]

hi all,

I can very well stitch normal jeans top / kurta, but forgot the cutting for sleeveless one,

I might mark 1- 2 inch or so above in arms to not to make a deep cut , but i am not sure about it.... can anyone confirm this cutting or send me any link??

[nirmalasri]

Hi canreachus,
I think this will be helpful to you. If you want the webpage please refer
CLASSIC JEANS « Weekend designer



Nirmala sri

CLASSIC JEANS





Classic five pocket cool, with an always-in-style timeless wash denim and the most comfortable fit ever. It’s no wonder you reach for your made-to-measure jeans again and again.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist – measure narrowest part of torso at navel level.
Seat – measure around fullest part of hips approximately 8″[20 cm] below the waist.
Body Rise - measure drop from waistline to crotch level.
Outseam – measure distance from waistline to floor.
Bottom width – desired width of jean leg bottoms (minimum amount must allow for measurement of foot around the heel).
PATTERN

Jean Template: Front

Square both ways from 0.

0-1 = body rise minus width of waistband: square across.

0-2 = waist to seat minus waistband width; square across.

0-3 = outseam measurement; square across.

1-4 = half the distance of 1-3 minus 2″[5cm]; square across.

1-5 = 1/12 of seat measurement + 3/8″[1cm]; square up to 6 and 7.

6-8 = ¼ of seat measurement.

5-9 = 1/16 of seat measurement.

7-10 = 5/8″[1.5cm].

Join 10-6 and 6-9 with a curve touching a point 1 ¼”- 1 ½” [3.25-3.75cm] from 5.

10-11 = ¼ waist + ½”[1.25cm]

3-12 = ½ of bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].

4-13 = the measurement 3-12 + ¾”[2cm].

Draw side seam 11,8,13,12; curve 8-11 out 1/8″[0.5 cm].

3-14 = ½ bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].

4-14 = the measurement 3-14 + ¾”[2cm].

Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14. Curve in 9-15 by 1/8″[0.5cm]

Jean Template: Back

5-16 = ¼ of distance 1-5; square up to 17 on hipline, 18 on the waistline.

16-19 = ½ of distance 16-18.

18-20 = ¾”[2cm].

20-21 = ¾”[2cm].

21-22 = ¼ of waist + 1″[2.5cm]. Join 21-22 to touch the line squared out from 0.

9-23 = ½ of distance 5-9 minus 1/8″[0.5cm].

23-24 = 1/8′[0.5cm].

Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching a point 1 ½”- 1 ¾”[4-4.5cm] from 16.

17-25 = ¼ seat + 1/8″[0.5cm].

12-26 = 3/8″[1cm]

13-27 = 3/8″[1cm]

Draw side seam 22, 25, 27, 26. Curve out slightly at 25.

14-28 = 3/8″[1cm]

15-29 = 3/8″[1cm]

Draw inside leg seam 24,29,28; curve 24-29 in 3/8″[1cm].

21-30 = ½ of 21-22; square down from line 21-22. Construct a dart on the line, 1/2′”[1.25cm] wide.

To Complete Jean Front

Trace off front section from template draft. Mark point 6.

Draw in curved pocket line 31-32 and pocket bag.

Cut off side piece along the line 31-32; add 1-3/8″[3.5cm] from 31-32.

Draw in fly piece shape to point 33 3/8″[1cm] below 6.

Fly piece width = 1 ½ – 1 ¾”[3.7-4.5cm] wide.

Trace off fly piece.

Trace off pocket bag along line 31-32.

To Complete Jean Back

Trace off back section from template draft. Mark points 16, 17, 21, 22, 24 and 25.

Cut along hipline 17-25, open a wedge approx. 1 ½”[4cm] wide at 17.

(Note: for rounder behinds increase more if desired).

17-34 = 1/8″[0.5cm]; draw in new crotch seamfrom 21-24.

Draw in patch pocket design. (Note: opening must allow for width of hand).

21-35 = ¼ of distance 21-16.

22-36 = ¼ of distance 22-25.

Cut off yoke along line 35-36; close dart.

Curve the line 21-22 and 35-36.

Patch Pocket – trace off back pocket.

Waistband

The jean waistband is cut with ease (1 ¼”[3 cm] larger than waist measurement to fit lower waist position).

37-38 = 2 x waistband width; square across.

38-39 = waist measurement + 1 ¼”[3cm]; square up.

39-40 = fly width; square up.

39-41 = ½ of distance 38-39; square up, label CB and CF. Mark foldline down center.