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  1. #491
    saheli3's Avatar
    saheli3 is offline Gold ILite
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

    Hi Saroj,

    Welcome to IL.

    Please search for Kowl Salwar in this thread, where I have posted the draft for Kowl (dhoti) salwar. There is also a draft for the patiala salwar in this thread.

    Please go through the thread carefully.

    Hope this is helpful.

    Cheers,
    Sunitha

    Everything happens for good; we realize that only later. So Keep Smiling .

  2. #492
    vjbunny's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

    Quote Originally Posted by sarojshivanand View Post
    helo madam i want to know the cutting and drafting of pleated patiala (it is called dhoti pant of 4mts ) pls help me
    i am regularly reading all ur instructions and learnt so many things of stitching but i don't now this salwar also i want to know the cutting of gather slawar pls show me that salwar also.
    Hi Saroj,
    Youcan find Youtube entry at
    YouTube - Dhoti Shalwar Technique

    and at IL thread,
    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/se...tml#post630179

    Hope This helps.......Also please share your stitching experiences here

    Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you have decided to look beyond the imperfection

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  3. #493
    lovers is offline Junior ILite
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    Default Re: Pattern for Salwar

    Quote Originally Posted by AVpoornima View Post
    take a old chudi which is in perfect size remove all stitches place this bits on ur material and draw leaving 1/2 to 1 inch gap. then stitch in machine.
    good idea... should benefit the one who doesnt know stitching


  4. #494
    gemofaperson is offline New ILite
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

    Hey Guys,

    I am new to sewing with just some basic knowledge...It would be of great help if one of u sisters would help me start up on how to sew a chudidhar top....I know the answers is somewhere in this thread...it is ju that everything is e verywhere n i am all confused.

    Please do not feel that it is redendant and guide me on how to sew a Chudidhar top.

    Thank You.


  5. #495
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

    Hi Gem.....
    You can find tutorials in this link

    Cute Confessions of Sew Addict: Tutorials - Enjoy!

    Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you have decided to look beyond the imperfection

    Dance Competition for Kids





  6. #496
    sarojshivanand is offline New ILite
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    Unhappy Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

    helo mam,
    can i get the drafting and cutting instruction of chudidar with lots of pleats at the bottom
    please fullfill my need.
    thnk u so much


  7. #497
    Oceangem is offline New ILite
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

    Quote Originally Posted by srinivasan_vanaja View Post
    hi,

    Measurement for Salwar bottom

    Length - x (Take measurement from where you tie the knot till your desired length)

    Seat - y (Around the seating area, hope you understand)

    Leg Bottom round - approx 20"

    Waist Band Length - 8" to 10"

    0 to 1 - Length (-) waist band length+4" or 6" or 2" (can keep canvas for the bottom if you need)

    0 to 2 - 1/3 seat (-) waist band length + 2"

    2 to 3 - 1/3 seat + 2"

    0 to 4 - 1/3 seat + 2"

    1 to 5 - 1/2 leg bottom round + 1"

    5 to 6 - 4"-3.5" or 6"-5.5" or 2"-1 .5" (According to 0 to 1 measurement)

    3 to 7 - 3"

    Waist Band

    0 to 1 - Waist Band length + 2"

    1 to 2 - Seat + 4"

    0 to 3 - Seat + 4"

    See the attachment for how to draw, cut and stitch.

    Now that I have given you the measurements and the foldings before you cut. For stitching you need a separate session which you can do only on somebody's supervision. If you can do it by yourself, it is fine.

    regards,

    Vanaja
    Hello. I am trying to understand how to position and cut the kameez on a rectangular piece of fabric. What I mean is, with the help of a rectangular diagram could you kindly help me understand where exactly the body part and more importantly the full-length-sleeves will be positioned for drawing/cutting? I want to have some embroidery done on the fabric and need this info to plan the positioning.


  8. #498
    zana is offline New ILite
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

    Thank you for the great information you provided on this thread. I have been stitching for a while but have problems with the sleeves fitting into the armholes. I used your formula, adding 0.5" to the armhole to get the sleeve width but still have problems with the fit.

    Kindly tell me what measurement you use for the across front at the chest is it 1/4 chest + 1" or 1.5" or that does not matter when you draft the sleeve.

    Thanking for your help.
    shahzana
    Quote Originally Posted by sabarimathi View Post
    ....forgot to tell about the sleeve,

    whatever formula u apply for armhole, add 0.5" to get the sleeve width. Length of sleeve is y'r requirement/.

    sabairi



  9. #499
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

    hi all,

    I can very well stitch normal jeans top / kurta, but forgot the cutting for sleeveless one,

    I might mark 1- 2 inch or so above in arms to not to make a deep cut , but i am not sure about it.... can anyone confirm this cutting or send me any link??


  10. #500
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    Default Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instruction

    Hi canreachus,
    I think this will be helpful to you. If you want the webpage please refer
    CLASSIC JEANS « Weekend designer



    Nirmala sri

    CLASSIC JEANS





    Classic five pocket cool, with an always-in-style timeless wash denim and the most comfortable fit ever. It’s no wonder you reach for your made-to-measure jeans again and again.
    MEASUREMENTS
    Waist – measure narrowest part of torso at navel level.
    Seat – measure around fullest part of hips approximately 8″[20 cm] below the waist.
    Body Rise - measure drop from waistline to crotch level.
    Outseam – measure distance from waistline to floor.
    Bottom width – desired width of jean leg bottoms (minimum amount must allow for measurement of foot around the heel).
    PATTERN


    Jean Template: Front
    Square both ways from 0.
    0-1 = body rise minus width of waistband: square across.
    0-2 = waist to seat minus waistband width; square across.
    0-3 = outseam measurement; square across.
    1-4 = half the distance of 1-3 minus 2″[5cm]; square across.
    1-5 = 1/12 of seat measurement + 3/8″[1cm]; square up to 6 and 7.
    6-8 = Ό of seat measurement.
    5-9 = 1/16 of seat measurement.
    7-10 = 5/8″[1.5cm].
    Join 10-6 and 6-9 with a curve touching a point 1 Ό”- 1 ½” [3.25-3.75cm] from 5.
    10-11 = Ό waist + ½”[1.25cm]
    3-12 = ½ of bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
    4-13 = the measurement 3-12 + Ύ”[2cm].
    Draw side seam 11,8,13,12; curve 8-11 out 1/8″[0.5 cm].
    3-14 = ½ bottom width minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
    4-14 = the measurement 3-14 + Ύ”[2cm].
    Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14. Curve in 9-15 by 1/8″[0.5cm]
    Jean Template: Back
    5-16 = Ό of distance 1-5; square up to 17 on hipline, 18 on the waistline.
    16-19 = ½ of distance 16-18.
    18-20 = Ύ”[2cm].
    20-21 = Ύ”[2cm].
    21-22 = Ό of waist + 1″[2.5cm]. Join 21-22 to touch the line squared out from 0.
    9-23 = ½ of distance 5-9 minus 1/8″[0.5cm].
    23-24 = 1/8′[0.5cm].
    Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching a point 1 ½”- 1 Ύ”[4-4.5cm] from 16.
    17-25 = Ό seat + 1/8″[0.5cm].
    12-26 = 3/8″[1cm]
    13-27 = 3/8″[1cm]
    Draw side seam 22, 25, 27, 26. Curve out slightly at 25.
    14-28 = 3/8″[1cm]
    15-29 = 3/8″[1cm]
    Draw inside leg seam 24,29,28; curve 24-29 in 3/8″[1cm].
    21-30 = ½ of 21-22; square down from line 21-22. Construct a dart on the line, 1/2′”[1.25cm] wide.
    To Complete Jean Front
    Trace off front section from template draft. Mark point 6.
    Draw in curved pocket line 31-32 and pocket bag.
    Cut off side piece along the line 31-32; add 1-3/8″[3.5cm] from 31-32.
    Draw in fly piece shape to point 33 3/8″[1cm] below 6.
    Fly piece width = 1 ½ – 1 Ύ”[3.7-4.5cm] wide.
    Trace off fly piece.
    Trace off pocket bag along line 31-32.
    To Complete Jean Back
    Trace off back section from template draft. Mark points 16, 17, 21, 22, 24 and 25.
    Cut along hipline 17-25, open a wedge approx. 1 ½”[4cm] wide at 17.
    (Note: for rounder behinds increase more if desired).
    17-34 = 1/8″[0.5cm]; draw in new crotch seamfrom 21-24.
    Draw in patch pocket design. (Note: opening must allow for width of hand).
    21-35 = Ό of distance 21-16.
    22-36 = Ό of distance 22-25.
    Cut off yoke along line 35-36; close dart.
    Curve the line 21-22 and 35-36.
    Patch Pocket – trace off back pocket.
    Waistband
    The jean waistband is cut with ease (1 Ό”[3 cm] larger than waist measurement to fit lower waist position).
    37-38 = 2 x waistband width; square across.
    38-39 = waist measurement + 1 Ό”[3cm]; square up.
    39-40 = fly width; square up.
    39-41 = ½ of distance 38-39; square up, label CB and CF. Mark foldline down center.



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