Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instructions

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

Sabari,

1. thx so much for the kowl draft. This model is one of the few models which is v. difficult to explain; & i know the difficulty with which u've explained the draft. But give me sometime sa that i understand it completely and reproduce it. It's weekend & i don't 've so much time . I appreciate y'r effort anyway. It is really a commendable job to explain.

Thanks a lot.

2. I got the definition for the sleeve cap. Thk u. I'm not sure of the terminologies , b'cos my instructor used to teach us in Tamil. Well, for the sleeve cap, i don't use any formula. For me, the straight line [ fig. in post #111] is the reference line. the first half of the curve begins from A & goes till the mid point of the line AE. The rest half of the curve should lie below the line from the mid point of AE to E.

I am slightly confused here :confused2:. EF is the length of the sleeve. How do you decide the distance between EA (What distance from E downwards will the point A be marked? Are you getting me or am I confusing you :?:?). I am reattaching the picture.

3 . I've a question to u. For the short sleeve model, where the sleeve is continuous with the shoulder line and the arm hole is continuous with the body piece[ arm hole cut is absent], would u recommend any formula for the length of the sleeve? Width in that case should be, i think : chest /6 + 1 [ not from the shoulder sloper point ]. In y'r case it may be ch / 6- 1/2" from the shoulder sloper.
I generally don't use a formula for this model, but make the shoulder continuous , so as to get shoulder + 2" [ sleeve length]. I make the arm hole too continuous . The shoulder sloper is absent; the cloth is in fold so that the shoulder seam is not required. Did u understand? If so am i right? pls help me.

This I will have to check and get back to you.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

Hi Sunitha

-->I have a doubt, the patiala draft which you gave : Does it have pleates from front side centre of waist band to the back side centre of waist band (or) the pleates are from front side centre of waist band to the side of the waist band?

Because the patiala which my friend's sew has pleates from centre (ie) from front side of the waist band to the side of the waist band.And it also has pleates side pannel which is attached on both sides with middle pannel.

Can you pls let me know which is the correct draft of patiala.....?
And also what is full patiala and half patiala.......?

Thanks in Advance
Regards,
Swapnasingh

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

hi ,
pls see my atttachments, which is self explanotory. I don't use a formula for the curve of the sleeve [ either front or back ]. But, that's how i learnt and i do it confidently . I till date get regular customers and they are perfectly satisfied.

regards, sabari

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

Thanks Sabari for that draft. So many different ways of doing the same thing. I just wonder sometimes!!!! Will try this way too and experiment.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

-->I have a doubt, the patiala draft which you gave : Does it have pleates from front side centre of waist band to the back side centre of waist band (or) the pleates are from front side centre of waist band to the side of the waist band?

Yes the pleats will be from centre front to centre back of the waist band.

Because the patiala which my friend's sew has pleates from centre (ie) from front side of the waist band to the side of the waist band.Can you pls let me know which is the correct draft of patiala.....?

For a normal salwar, we have pleats till the side of the waist band. Even in the shops I have seen that the patiala will have pleats till the back.

And it also has pleates side pannel which is attached on both sides with middle pannel.

I do not quite understand this. Do you have a picture to show for this?

And also what is full patiala and half patiala.......?

The draft that I have provided is for a full patiala. In a semi patiala, too there will be pleats all over, but the drafting is slightly different. The legs are not drafted "on fold". So there will be one back and one front piece for each leg. There will be no middle piece. The entire width of the material will be used for each leg. You will have to join the front and back pieces at the side. Generally, about 1-2 inches of either the kurta material or some other contrast material will be joined as a side band between the front and back pieces. I hope you are able to follow. I have not sewn this myself yet but this is what I was taught. When I do sew, I will post the draft and the picture.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

hi,

i thought we were on the same page. Is y'r method , by any chance, different? Leave alone the draft for the curve . Are the other formulas different?

regards, sabari

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

And also what is full patiala and half patiala.......?

The draft that I have provided is for a full patiala. In a semi patiala, too there will be pleats all over, but the drafting is slightly different. The legs are not drafted "on fold". So there will be one back and one front piece for each leg. There will be no middle piece. The entire width of the material will be used for each leg. You will have to join the front and back pieces at the side. Generally, about 1-2 inches of either the kurta material or some other contrast material will be joined as a side band between the front and back pieces. I hope you are able to follow. I have not sewn this myself yet but this is what I was taught. When I do sew, I will post the draft and the picture.[/quote]

good explanation.
Is the front width of a semi patiala more than the back one? Or, the width being the same [ = width of the material ], is there a differnce in pleating - like we take the pleats to the front , and there are no pleats in the back , or vice- versa? Or, am i totally wrong?

-sabari

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

Hi Sabari,

For the [chest/6 +1 1/2"] /2 , i was taught to use chest/12. For adding pleats, additional 1.5 - 2 inches as you have shown.

Another method that I have tried from a book is ,
chest /6 + 1.5" (width of the armhole), can also be 1/2 sleeve round + 1" (suppose this to be 'X')
and
(chest/6 + 1.5)/2 can also be X / 2 + .5"

Hope its understandable.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

so,. do u measure sleeve round?

sabari

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

good explanation.
Is the front width of a semi patiala more than the back one? Or, the width being the same [ = width of the material ], is there a differnce in pleating - like we take the pleats to the front , and there are no pleats in the back , or vice- versa? Or, am i totally wrong?

The width of the front and back will be same. Pleating is same as in the patiala draft that I have provided.