Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instructions

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

Hi Friends,

I have seen different measurements for drafting the armscye depth in various books and also depending on the garment (kameez, blouse kurti etc.).

The variations are :
chest/6 + 1.5",
chest/8 + 2"
chest/4 - 1"
chest/7 + 1"

My question is how to decide and what is the correct way? Should it vary with the type of dress? Also, this will decide on the sleeve drafting in turn. So once this is clarified, I would like to know about the sleeves. Please all you experts, put in your suggestions and share the tips.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

hi saheli and all,

1. chest/6 + 1" [ not 1.5"; chest / 6 + 1.5" is for the sleeve where the armhole is chest/6 + 1"] . Application: saree blouse.

2. chest / 4-1" is for a loose fit garment such as chudidhar tops, shirt, or a midi tops, etc with the sleeve attachment. Application: loose garments with sleeve.

3. chest / 8+ 2" or chest /7+1". I've not worked on / used those calculations. .but when comparing it with points 1 & 2 discussed above, it is even lesser than the armhole for the saree blouse [ point 1]. So, i would use it to apply for a sleeveless garment. This is what i feel .Application: sleeveless garments .

Also, depending on your requirement, u need to apply the formula. In my experience, i had applied chest/6 + 1" to even chudi and nighties for my customers , and they liked it. In fact, when i used the other one , chest / 4-1" they had actually commented that it spoiled thier looks, b'cos it resembled a readymade one, made to fit all, and not a custom made one.

pls send in all y'r comments . I feel this is a healthy discussion.'

and sunita, I got the cowl pant. If i'm right, we'll need 54" width clotha and 3m of it. pls correct me , if i'm wrong

regards,
sabari.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

....forgot to tell about the sleeve,

whatever formula u apply for armhole, add 0.5" to get the sleeve width. Length of sleeve is y'r requirement/.

sabairi

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

Hi Sabari,

Thanks a lot for your inputs. I usually use chest/6 - 1/2" for a sari blouse from the sloper point (which is usually 1/4 or 1/2"). It fits me well.
Chest / 6 + 1" for nighties and salwars. Again this is from the shoulder sloper point and not from the shoulder line.

I will try your way also some time and see.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

Hi Sabari,

For the sleeve width, i add 1.5" to the armhole formula. This is how I was taught. Have to give a shot to your formula and check if it works for me.

Also for the sleeve cap, i use chest/12. How do you do that?

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar - Kameez, Chudidhar, Punjabi Dress Instructio

Hi Sabari, Meyammai and other friends,

Please find the draft for the kwol salwar as requested by you all. I have tried my best to explain it in detail and simple terms. Do let me know if you have any difficulties in understanding or find any discrepencies.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

hi sunita,

whatever formula i said was, was not from the shoulder sloper point. So, for a saree blouse, it comes to chest/6+ .5" from the sloper point. But u apply chest/6 - .5" and still u r fine. May be i should give it a try.

regards,
sabari

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

h sunita,
what is a sleeve cap?

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

Hi Sabari,

Please refer to the first drawing of the sleeve in the picture in post #111 of this thread. The portion above the line AD is called the sleeve cap. What do you call that as?

BTW, did you see the Kowl salwar draft that I have posted yesterday? Are you able to follow? Please let me know.

 

Re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Drafting Armscye depth

hi sunita,

1. thx so much for the kowl draft. This model is one of the few models which is v. difficult to explain; & i know the difficulty with which u've explained the draft. But give me sometime sa that i understand it completely and reproduce it. It's weekend & i don't 've so much time . I appreciate y'r effort anyway. It is really a commendable job to explain.

2. I got the definition for the sleeve cap. Thk u. I'm not sure of the terminologies , b'cos my instructor used to teach us in Tamil. Well, for the sleeve cap, i don't use any formula. For me, the straight line [ fig. in post #111] is the reference line. the first half of the curve begins from A & goes till the mid point of the line AE. The rest half of the curve should lie below the line from the mid point of AE to E.

3 . I've a question to u. For the short sleeve model, where the sleeve is continuous with the shoulder line and the arm hole is continuous with the body piece[ arm hole cut is absent], would u recommend any formula for the length of the sleeve? Width in that case should be, i think : chest /6 + 1 [ not from the shoulder sloper point ]. In y'r case it may be ch / 6- 1/2" from the shoulder sloper.
I generally don't use a formula for this model, but make the shoulder continuous , so as to get shoulder + 2" [ sleeve length]. I make the arm hole too continuous . The shoulder sloper is absent; the cloth is in fold so that the shoulder seam is not required. Did u understand? If so am i right? pls help me.

regards,
sabari.