Salwar Top - Shoulder Drops

vijiananthu · Sep 4, 2014

Hi Friends!

I have been trying to stitch my top with perfect neckline, shoulder and armhole.
I have wasted 3 tops already using different calculations.

My Shoulder is 14.5, Armhole is 16 and Neck is 3 or 2.75"

First top I kept Shoulder 6.5, armhole as 7.5 and neck as 3
Second I kept Shoulder as 7, armhole as 7 and neck as 3
Third I kept Shoulder as 7.25, Armhole as 7.25 and neck as 3

Nothing seems to be perfect, the neck goes broad or becomes close, shoulder drops or becomes tight, armhole becomes tight and I had to attach extra cloth.
:idontgetit:

Can someone tell me how to measure the Shoulder, Armhole and Neck for a neat and perfect finish? I have 5 sets to be stitched mg:.

Thanks .

sumanrathi · Sep 4, 2014

i too face this same problem i tried many ways still learning the technique.

To avoid this problem i use to measure the existing perfect top and keep the same dimension.

I will study and do the layout post tomorrow or day after tomorrow.

good luck
have you made the pouch if you need i will make video and post for you.

vijiananthu · Sep 4, 2014

I have already made the sample pouch yesterday. I will post the picture tomorrow.

nirmalsivagami · Sep 9, 2014

vijiananthu said: ↑

Hi Friends!

I have been trying to stitch my top with perfect neckline, shoulder and armhole.
I have wasted 3 tops already using different calculations.

My Shoulder is 14.5, Armhole is 16 and Neck is 3 or 2.75"

First top I kept Shoulder 6.5, armhole as 7.5 and neck as 3
Second I kept Shoulder as 7, armhole as 7 and neck as 3
Third I kept Shoulder as 7.25, Armhole as 7.25 and neck as 3

Nothing seems to be perfect, the neck goes broad or becomes close, shoulder drops or becomes tight, armhole becomes tight and I had to attach extra cloth.
:idontgetit:

Can someone tell me how to measure the Shoulder, Armhole and Neck for a neat and perfect finish? I have 5 sets to be stitched mg:.

Thanks .
Click to expand...

Hi,

Usually for a churidhar tops or kurthi we don't stitch it tight...its a little bit loose than a saree blouse. Also the neck wouldn't be very broad and rather closed in kurthis.

For the measurements you have mentioned I have done a rough diagram for cutting....refer to it. I hope it will be useful for you.

In the diagram I have divided your total shoulder of measurement 14.5 inches as 2 x (A+B)

i.e A = 2.75 inches and B = 4.5 inches
So 2 x (2.75 + 4.5) = 14.5 inches

Pls note: there is no need to give extra 0.5 inches in shoulder or neck for seam allowance...you will get perfect fit with this measurement itself.

for armhole you need to take depth C as 5.5 inches
armhole length D as 8.5 inches(you have mentioned armhole measurement as 16, so single side would be 8 inches and 0.5 is for joining shoulder seam)
you leave another 1 inch on each half for extra allowance
so totally the measurement for armhole would be 19 = (8.5 + 8.5 + 1 + 1)

also make sure when cutting the cloth for sleeves, the length of the cloth is 19 inches

If you find difficulty in understanding this revert back
happy stitching

cheers
Nirmal

rachaputi · Sep 9, 2014

You can find so many tutorials in youtube i think..

vijiananthu · Sep 10, 2014

Thank you Nirmalsivagami Mam! Thanks for the effort taken. I will try with this measurement.

I have one more doubt. My sleeve length is 6.5" and breadth @ 6.5" is 13"
What is the Sleeve Breadth should I keep? Should that match with 'C' or 'D' ?

vijiananthu · Sep 10, 2014

rachaputi said: ↑

You can find so many tutorials in youtube i think..
Click to expand...

Yes. I have seen lot of tutorials.
One says we have to keep half of the shoulder measurement as it is..
One says we have to minus 1" from the shoulder for perfect fitting...
I have tried all the method.
But I am confused now. :idontgetit:

sumanrathi · Sep 10, 2014

i saw one Tamil tutorial in you tube pl. have a look hope this will clarify your needs.

i have to try.

nirmalsivagami · Sep 11, 2014

vijiananthu said: ↑

Thank you Nirmalsivagami Mam! Thanks for the effort taken. I will try with this measurement.

I have one more doubt. My sleeve length is 6.5" and breadth @ 6.5" is 13"
What is the Sleeve Breadth should I keep? Should that match with 'C' or 'D' ?
Click to expand...

ur welcome...friendssmiley
here i have mentioned about cutting measurements for armhole in tops...so dont confuse with cutting of sleeve measurements

for sleeves refer to the rough diagram...

height = 8"
i.e 8" = 6.5 inches + 0.5 (for joining sleeves to armhole portion of tops) + 1 inch (or as per requirement for finishing lower portion)

width = 13" + 1" +1" = 15"
here 1" would be the extra allowance on each side...also pls refer the cutting of 1" extra allowance in the rough diagram..it is for a good fit and stitch

as mentioned in earlier...the curved portion of sleeve and armhole measurement should match to 19" for a perfect stitching

i hope i am clear on what i have tried to explain

pls note: am not an expert tailor...just tried to explain what i do while i stitch...so try and let me know the outcome waitingsmiley

happy stitching

cheers
Nirmal