You are already
a member and logged in!
I am using your name here to get your attention you did a wonderful job of teaching us in one thread but it got stopped I want to revive this Please Vani help us I am posting the tutorial you taught till it got cut. http://www.indusladies.com/forums/se...tml#post941886
Please ladies ask only about the post only there are sticky threads for blouse, salwar kameez c check it in this forum but please spare this thread for beginners
Shoulder =A-B = Measured from the prominent bone at the end of one shoulder to the prominent bone at the end of the other shoulder.
Chest = Measured around the fullest part of the chest= C-D
Waist line. =Measured around the natural waist line= G-H
Hip = Measured around the fullest part of the hip=I-J .Usually 7” to8” down from the waist line.
Upper arm = biceps =.Measured around Q-R
Sleeve width= Measured around the edge of the sleeve =O-P.
Sleeve length= Measured from B, on shoulder line, to the edge of the sleeve S
Full length for the bodice = E-F Measured from the shoulder line to waist.
Full for skirts, Salwar etc… = Measured from waist line to the bottom edge of the garment.
Neck width=1/12th chest + 1/4"or to taste.
Front neck depth=1/12 th chest + 1/2 " or to taste.
Back neck depth1"+1/2"or to taste.
Full length of long skirts= M-N . Measured from nape of the neck to the bottom edge of the skirt
Making a paper pattern is a must for the beginners. I prefer to make paper patterns and then cut the fabric. It saves time and material and the paper draft is reusable. We can adjust the placing of the paper pattern on the fabric according to the material available. If the fitting is not good we can make necessary alterations in the paper pattern itself. Same paper pattern can be used as basic and design different patterns
1. Sheet of paper.
We need thick sheet of paper if we want keep the draft for a long time and use it again and again. If not news paper is well and good. Once we get correct fitting we can make cut pattern in thick cardboard and use it for future use.
In the paper pattern ½” seam allowance will be there unless it is mentioned.name of the parts should be written .If two identical parts are cut separately we have to mark R and L on the draft. For example sleeves. Especially while cutting plain material we end up cutting two right sleeves.
½” seam should be added to attach button stands. If we have ample material button can be cut along with the bodice. Care must be taken to mark the place by notches from where the button strand starts. Notches should be made to mark important points that must coincide while stitching. The point of notch should project beyond the cutting line of the pattern.
When there are identical parts usually pattern is drafted on folded paper. For example right and left sleeves front and back of bodice etc…. Both the shapes of front and back such as neck, armhole etc……are marked on the top fold itself. Outer line is cut first .Sheets are separated. This forms the back. On the top sheet the inner lines are also cut .This forms the front. Care should be taken to measure from the fold line. Facing line for neck, armhole etc …can also be marked .position for darts can also be marked
Precautions to be taken while cutting.
1. It is better to shrink cotton material before cutting or ½’ extra should be added for width. For the length we can add still more. It depends on the material. I prefer to wash, iron and cut the pattern.
2. Straighten the grain of the fabric by pulling the corners material .If the fabric is long you need help of another person. Lay the fabric on a table keeping both the selvedges together. If it forms a rectangle and the Warf and weft are perpendicular it means fabric is grain perfect. Sometimes shopkeepers also would have cut the fabric bias. That also should be corrected. Pull a thread from width wise from end to end and cut on the line
3. Fabric should be ironed lengthwise. Length wise means the grains that run parallel to the selvedge.
3. Selvedges should always come to sides (side of the sleeve, side of the bodice etc…..)If the garment is stitched width wise it will not stretch. It will be uncomfortable to wear. Dresses get torn fast.
Measure the width of the draft and fold the material according to that. Keep the fabric on table and smoothen it so that there are no folds. Place the large pieces first. Check whether the garment has back opening or front opening. Keep the one that has got no opening on fold line. Selvedges should come to the sides. Arrange the other small pieces .Pin the pieces to the fabric without lifting the fabric.If there is not enough fabric to cut same piece together cut them separately. Mark darts and notches and then remove the pins
Tacking is a temporary stitch used to hold two or more layers of fabric. Length of the stitch need not be small. It can be of ¼” or ½”It is removed after permanent stitching is done. It should be not be done on the line where the permanent stitch will be stitched .It should be done close to permanent stitch line but behind .Tacking can be removed by clipping the stitch 3 “ or 4”intervals. Care should be taken not to put permanent stitch on the tacking. It can be stitched with single or double thread, knotted at the end; evenly spaced stitches are made by taking the needle in and out of the fabric. Line of tacking is ended with a knot. continued...........
Method of doing running stitch is similar to tacking. End of the thread is knotted. Small stitches are made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric. Stitches should be small and evenly spaced. It is used to make gathers. continued ............
Back stitch is the strongest stitch which can be used when garments are hand stitched. Bring the needle out at A insert needle at appoint B, behind A (1st step).Bring the needle out at the point C (2nd step) one stitch AB is formed. Once again insert the needle at the point A (3rd step) and bring the needle out at D (4th step) 2nd stitch CA is formed. Continue like this. Dotted line signifies the thread behind the fabric. continued.............
Hemming is used to finish the hems. continued.........
Over cast stitch
Overcast stitch is used to keep raw edges from unraveling,
Catch stitch is used to hold a raw edge against a layer of fabric. It is worked from left to right. Take needle out at the point A on the fold. Take a small stitch at BC on the single layer .Once again take a stitch DE on the fold. And continue.
Slip stitch is used to make invisible hem. It will not unravel as most of the stitch is hidden under the layer if fabric. It is worked from right to left with a single thread fastened with a knot hidden inside the hem. Bring the needle out through the folded edge at point” a “; pick up a few threads of the flat single layer of fabric at “ bc ” and then work through the fold again at ” d “ . Slide the needle along, come out of the fold at “a’ “ to make the next stitch. This stitch is very useful in attaching sari fall.
I am not able to paste images so I have attached doc file check here