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  1. #1
    vjbunny's Avatar
    vjbunny is offline Platinum ILite Forum Moderator
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    Default Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    Hi Vani,
    I am using your name here to get your attention you did a wonderful job of teaching us in one thread but it got stopped I want to revive this Please Vani help us I am posting the tutorial you taught till it got cut. http://www.indusladies.com/forums/se...tml#post941886


    Please ladies ask only about the post only there are sticky threads for blouse, salwar kameez c check it in this forum but please spare this thread for beginners
    Taking Measurements


    Shoulder =A-B = Measured from the prominent bone at the end of one shoulder to the prominent bone at the end of the other shoulder.
    Chest = Measured around the fullest part of the chest= C-D
    Waist line. =Measured around the natural waist line= G-H
    Hip = Measured around the fullest part of the hip=I-J .Usually 7” to8” down from the waist line.
    Upper arm = biceps =.Measured around Q-R
    Sleeve width= Measured around the edge of the sleeve =O-P.
    Sleeve length= Measured from B, on shoulder line, to the edge of the sleeve S
    Full length for the bodice = E-F Measured from the shoulder line to waist.
    Full for skirts, Salwar etc… = Measured from waist line to the bottom edge of the garment.
    Neck width=1/12th chest + 1/4"or to taste.
    Front neck depth=1/12 th chest + 1/2 " or to taste.
    Back neck depth1"+1/2"or to taste.
    Full length of long skirts= M-N . Measured from nape of the neck to the bottom edge of the skirt




    Pattern making

    Making a paper pattern is a must for the beginners. I prefer to make paper patterns and then cut the fabric. It saves time and material and the paper draft is reusable. We can adjust the placing of the paper pattern on the fabric according to the material available. If the fitting is not good we can make necessary alterations in the paper pattern itself. Same paper pattern can be used as basic and design different patterns
    Materials needed
    1. Sheet of paper.
    We need thick sheet of paper if we want keep the draft for a long time and use it again and again. If not news paper is well and good. Once we get correct fitting we can make cut pattern in thick cardboard and use it for future use.
    2. Pencil
    3. Eraser
    4. Ruler
    In the paper pattern ½” seam allowance will be there unless it is mentioned.name of the parts should be written .If two identical parts are cut separately we have to mark R and L on the draft. For example sleeves. Especially while cutting plain material we end up cutting two right sleeves.
    ½” seam should be added to attach button stands. If we have ample material button can be cut along with the bodice. Care must be taken to mark the place by notches from where the button strand starts. Notches should be made to mark important points that must coincide while stitching. The point of notch should project beyond the cutting line of the pattern.

    Method Drafting
    When there are identical parts usually pattern is drafted on folded paper. For example right and left sleeves front and back of bodice etc…. Both the shapes of front and back such as neck, armhole etc……are marked on the top fold itself. Outer line is cut first .Sheets are separated. This forms the back. On the top sheet the inner lines are also cut .This forms the front. Care should be taken to measure from the fold line. Facing line for neck, armhole etc …can also be marked .position for darts can also be marked
    Precautions to be taken while cutting.
    1. It is better to shrink cotton material before cutting or ½’ extra should be added for width. For the length we can add still more. It depends on the material. I prefer to wash, iron and cut the pattern.
    2. Straighten the grain of the fabric by pulling the corners material .If the fabric is long you need help of another person. Lay the fabric on a table keeping both the selvedges together. If it forms a rectangle and the Warf and weft are perpendicular it means fabric is grain perfect. Sometimes shopkeepers also would have cut the fabric bias. That also should be corrected. Pull a thread from width wise from end to end and cut on the line
    3. Fabric should be ironed lengthwise. Length wise means the grains that run parallel to the selvedge.
    3. Selvedges should always come to sides (side of the sleeve, side of the bodice etc…..)If the garment is stitched width wise it will not stretch. It will be uncomfortable to wear. Dresses get torn fast.
    Measure the width of the draft and fold the material according to that. Keep the fabric on table and smoothen it so that there are no folds. Place the large pieces first. Check whether the garment has back opening or front opening. Keep the one that has got no opening on fold line. Selvedges should come to the sides. Arrange the other small pieces .Pin the pieces to the fabric without lifting the fabric.If there is not enough fabric to cut same piece together cut them separately. Mark darts and notches and then remove the pins




    Tacking
    Tacking is a temporary stitch used to hold two or more layers of fabric. Length of the stitch need not be small. It can be of ¼” or ½”It is removed after permanent stitching is done. It should be not be done on the line where the permanent stitch will be stitched .It should be done close to permanent stitch line but behind .Tacking can be removed by clipping the stitch 3 “ or 4”intervals. Care should be taken not to put permanent stitch on the tacking. It can be stitched with single or double thread, knotted at the end; evenly spaced stitches are made by taking the needle in and out of the fabric. Line of tacking is ended with a knot. continued...........





    Running stitch
    Method of doing running stitch is similar to tacking. End of the thread is knotted. Small stitches are made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric. Stitches should be small and evenly spaced. It is used to make gathers. continued ............




    Back stitch

    Back stitch is the strongest stitch which can be used when garments are hand stitched. Bring the needle out at A insert needle at appoint B, behind A (1st step).Bring the needle out at the point C (2nd step) one stitch AB is formed. Once again insert the needle at the point A (3rd step) and bring the needle out at D (4th step) 2nd stitch CA is formed. Continue like this. Dotted line signifies the thread behind the fabric. continued.............



    Hemming
    Hemming is used to finish the hems. continued.........
    Attached Images


    Over cast stitch

    Overcast stitch is used to keep raw edges from unraveling,
    Continued...........



    Catch stitch
    Catch stitch is used to hold a raw edge against a layer of fabric. It is worked from left to right. Take needle out at the point A on the fold. Take a small stitch at BC on the single layer .Once again take a stitch DE on the fold. And continue.
    continued..............






    Slip stitch
    Slip stitch is used to make invisible hem. It will not unravel as most of the stitch is hidden under the layer if fabric. It is worked from right to left with a single thread fastened with a knot hidden inside the hem. Bring the needle out through the folded edge at point” a “; pick up a few threads of the flat single layer of fabric at “ bc ” and then work through the fold again at ” d “ . Slide the needle along, come out of the fold at “a’ “ to make the next stitch. This stitch is very useful in attaching sari fall.

    I am not able to paste images so I have attached doc file check here





    Last edited by vjbunny; 17th November 2010 at 03:52 PM.
    Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you have decided to look beyond the imperfection

    Dance Competition for Kids



  2. #2
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    Hi,
    ArtVani Madam,
    I think you are not interested I hope some other person continues this thread...............

    Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you have decided to look beyond the imperfection

    Dance Competition for Kids



  3. #3
    artvani's Avatar
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    Hi,
    I am very happy to note that you are taking my tutorials with a lot of interest. I do it only for my passion and at my convenience only.I have never refused to help any body.

    Last edited by artvani; 19th November 2010 at 03:09 PM.
    Best Wishes
    Vani

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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    vani,

    thanks for your interest. u can leisurely teach us. we will be waiting for your tutorial.

    andal

    'Finest Blog Winner - Second weekly Pick of August 2010'.


    LIFE IS TOO WONDERFUL TO BE SPENT WORRYING.

  5. #5
    artvani's Avatar
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    I will continue in a different thread

    Last edited by artvani; 23rd November 2010 at 10:40 AM.

  6. #6
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    Hi Vani Madam,
    Thank You we all will look forward to your thread.......You can do it at your pace but we will follow you no problem but I request you to start thread for doubts, bcs mixing of unrelated doubts will only cause the thread to break................ the way Chitvish has done

    Durga
    A laugh is a smile that bursts...........

  7. #7
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    I do not know how to continue in the same thread .There will be some queries in the middle.

    Best Wishes
    Vani

  8. #8
    vjbunny's Avatar
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    Hi Vani Mam,

    You can request moderators for removing the queries to another thread like Ask ChitWish n YashKushis drawing threads .......

    Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you have decided to look beyond the imperfection

    Dance Competition for Kids



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    singingbird is offline Senior ILite
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    Thank you very much.................


  10. #10
    vjbunny's Avatar
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    Default re: Sewing / Tailoring / Stitching : Tutorial for Beginners & Links to Art Vani's Threads

    @ ArtVani mam ,
    I am taking this liberty by attaching your tutorial threads here....so that they dont get missed among other arts crafts n sewing threads.......Since you say you dont know.......

    I request moderators to change this threads title by deleting "requesting" to "Art Vanis Sewing Tutorials for Beginners........."

    Hi, Singing bird ,
    Pls check artvani mams threads to get further info but please give your FeedBack at those threads only........ not here


    1. http://www.indusladies.com/forums/se...ml#post1518134

    2. http://www.indusladies.com/forums/se...e-garment.html

    3. http://www.indusladies.com/forums/se...tml#post907582

    Last edited by vjbunny; 5th December 2010 at 04:22 PM. Reason: editing
    Being happy doesn't mean everything is perfect. It means you have decided to look beyond the imperfection

    Dance Competition for Kids



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