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Drawing and Painting Materials.....A guide for beginners!

Discussion in 'Paintings' started by Yashikushi, Jan 7, 2010.

  1. Yashikushi

    Yashikushi Moderator IL Hall of Fame

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    Drawing And Painting Materials


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    Sketching Materials:


    A : The simple and most universal toll of the artist is the pencil. It is very versatile. It ranges from very hard to very soft and black (HB, B, 2B, 4B, 6B etc.) and there are different thickness. At least you must have three degrees of blackness, such as HB (average hardness and blackness), 2B (soft and black), 4B (very soft and black). Try to avoid H series pencils (eg: H, 2H, 3H, 4H). H serious are only used for engineering drawings. They wont be suitable for portraits and fine arts drawings.

    B : Charcoal stick - Sticks are more versatile then pencil because they are very easy to produce dimensional images on toned paper.

    C : Charcoal pencil - Charcoal pencil in black, grey and white are excellent. A variety of grads are available namely Hard, Neutral, Soft. Hard is used for lighter tone, Neutral is used for middle tone and soft is used for darker tone.

    D : Marker and Ballpoint Pen - Ball pens are some times used to give strokes. Black color is preferable. Also some more variety of pen are available, fine nib push pen, fine line pen.

    E : Craft knife or Cutter - used to sharpen pencils and charcoal. A normal hand-held sharpeners won't always take the thickness of lead in charcoal pencils and graphite pencilis. Cutter will give a very good point.

    F : Pencils - It ranges from very hard to very soft and black (H, HB, B, 2B, etc.) and there are different thickness.

    G : Geometric compass - used to put circles.

    H: Pro circles - used to put circles and curves as same as compass.

    I : Pencil Sharpener - used to sharpen pencils.

    J : Non dust eraser. This will help in preserving the paper.

    Apart from these materials, there are some Stuffs which are not available in all countries. Some of the materials which are rarely available -

    Blending stump (used for quick build up of tones). Instead of blending stump we can use a piece of tissue paper. By rubbing the tissue over the scribbled surface or strokes, we can get the desired tone. I also missed some materials. I have given those details in the following text. Always keep a piece of cloth or napkin for wiping hands. Drawing for long time will lead to sweat and it might damage the sketch. Salt Paper is used to sharpen the tip of the pencils. This can be done while giving some sharp storks.

    Stencil is a template used to draw or paint identical letters, symbols, shapes, or patterns every time it is used. One feet ruler and half feed ruler, for put borders or straight lines. A4 papers for marking measurements and to keep under our hand while drawing. This will prevent our work from damage by sweat.

    Usage of pencil: Advanced drawing materials are not necessary if you are a beginner. If you are drawing for the first time, you can use AB, 2B, 3B or 4B pencils (Pencils should be well sharpened). Try these range of pencils and experiment the softness by yourself.
    Once you achieved a firm grip in the pencil, you can switch over to the solid graphite stick. This cost more than a pencil but it will last longer than a pencil. Also it is very comfortable you can vary you strokes as per your wish. Charcoal is good for larger drawings. It can be smudged or softened.
    After a good practise in pencil and charcoal you can use pen (0.1 grade or higher).


    A3 size note book : Sketch pad (11.5" X 16.5") - suitable for pencil, charcoal, crayon, ink and light washes. Standard cartridge papers are preferable. This will be available in different weights and textures. The advantage of smooth paper is that you can draw in greater detail and also draw smaller shapes. If you are using the coarse paper, your lines will look slightly broken and will give a textured effect. Also you cannot draw pictures too small. Generally The smaller the drawing the smoother and finer the drawing paper. Sketch pad with butter paper in between the sheets will help in preventing the sketch from overlapping on the previous page or any damage to the drawing. A sketch pad will be very useful in the beginning, because you can carry it where every you want and you can draw where ever you like.

    Using the paper: Working in larger area is more easier for correction. Beginners can work as large as possible. The surface under the drawing paper must be smooth, this will improve the quality of the drawing. Masking tapes and paper clips will safe guard the paper on the board.

    Please read this post of mine to get more info on Pencil drawing and shading techniques.
    http://www.indusladies.com/forums/d...y/51085-basic-pencil-drawing-and-shading.html
     

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  2. Yashikushi

    Yashikushi Moderator IL Hall of Fame

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    Easel or Drawing board can be fixed in board or you can keep on your lap with a firm support on the back side of the board.

    Working ar a EASEL: The best way to draw is standing up and using the easel. The pencil should be at you shoulder height and you should have a very clear view of drawing area. Plenty of distance is needed between you and the easel, so that your arm, wrist and hand can move freely and also gives you a clear view of what you doing. Every now and then you can step back and observe your work, so that you can see the work more objectiverly
     

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  3. Yashikushi

    Yashikushi Moderator IL Hall of Fame

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    Painting Materials

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    Necessary materials are shown in the below picture. Poster colors, Painting brushes, Painting Pallet, Bowl, Cloth etc.. There are some advance products like paint remover. But for beginners these are the basic materials needed.


    We have two types of brushes namely Flat brush and Round brush.
    Flat brushes are used to cover more area in less time and round brushes are used for detailing. Beginners are recommended to use round brush first. Then they can start using flat brush.​
     

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    Yashikushi Moderator IL Hall of Fame

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    Know Your Painting Brushes: Hairs and Bristles

    Paint brushes are made from stiff or soft hairs, which be either natural hairs or synthetic fibres. Soft brushes are ideal for thin paint which spreads easily, and for detailed work as they form a sharp point which allows for precision painting. Robust, hard brushes are ideal for pushing around thick paint and for creating brush marks in the paint.

    Is natural hair better than synthetic?
    Modern synthetic brushes are excellent and have the advantage of being cheaper than natural hair. Purists will tell you that no synthetic fiber can beat a Kolinsky sable, considered the ultimate of soft hairs because of its flexibility and strength, which give an artist great control. If you're at all squeamish about or ideologically opposed to the sources of natural hair, then synthetic brushes are the way to go.


    What natural hairs are used in paint brushes?

    Sable: The ultimate soft brush is made from the hairs on the tail of a sable marten; these taper naturally, so when they're put into a brush they form a point. Sable brushes are expensive, but are renowned for their softness, flexibility, and fine point. Kolinsky sable from Siberia has traditionally been considered the best hair for watercolor brushes.

    Squirrel: Cheaper than sable, squirrel is a soft hair with little spring. Larger squirrel brushes work better than smaller ones because the mass of hairs together gives them support.

    Hog/bristle: The ultimate hard brush is made from the hairs on the back of a pig (hog), which are strong yet springy. The bristles have natural split-ends, which increases the amount of paint they hold. Used for oils and acrylics.

    Camel: Brushes labeled 'camel' hair are really made from other types of soft hair. Camel hair is unsuitable for brushes because it's too woolly.

    Ox: Long, strong and springy hair.

    Pony: Coarse hair that doesn't form a good point. Often used in cheaper brushes

    Goat: Lacks spring, but forms a good point. Used in calligraphy and Chinese Brush painting.
     

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  5. Yashikushi

    Yashikushi Moderator IL Hall of Fame

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    Parts of an Art Paint Brush

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    While it's unlikely anyone's ever going to test you on the names for the various parts of a paint brush, they do exist ... so here they are in case you're ever in an art trivia quiz contest.

    The handle of a brush is most often made from wood that's painted and/or varnished, but it can also be made from plastic or bamboo. The length is variable, from really short (such as those in a travel paint boxes) to really long (ideal for big canvases). What's more important than length is that the brush feels balanced in your hand. You're going to be using it a lot, so it needs to be comfortable to hold.

    What bristles or hairs are in a brush is also variable, depending on what the brush is intended for. What's important is that they're firmly held and aren't going to fall out constantly as you paint.

    The ferrule is the part that holds the handle and hairs together, and in shape. It's usually made from metal, but not exclusively. Mop brushes, for instance, can have a ferrule made from plastic and wire. A decent-quality ferrule won't rust or come loose.

    The toe of a brush is the very end of the bristles, while the heel is where the bristles go into the ferrule at the end the handle (not that you can usually see this without taking a brush apart). The belly is, as the name would suggest, the fattest part of a brush. (It's most obvious on a round brush, rather than a flat one.) A substantial belly on a round watercolor brush enables you to pick up a large quantity of paint at a time.​


    Thickness of a Brush
    Not only do different brands of art paint brush vary in size even when they're supposedly the same (as indicated by the number), but also in thickness. If you're buying brushes from a catalog or online, remember to consider this if you're not familiar with a particular brand of brush.
    If you're painting with watercolor or very fluid paint, a thick brush will hold considerably more paint. This enables you to paint for longer without stopping. But if you want a brush for dry-brush techniques, you may well want a brush that holds less paint.

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    How the Size of an Art Paint Brush is Indicated?

    The size of a brush is indicated by a number printed on the handle. Brushes start from 000, then 00, 0, 1, 2, and up. The higher the number, the bigger or wider the brush.
    Unfortunately, there is little consistency between brush manufacturers as to what these sizes actually are, so a number 10 in one brand can be a different size to a number 10 in another brand.

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    Believe it or not, both brushes in the photo are size no. 10. Admittedly, the difference in size isn't usually so extreme; these two brushes were chosen specifically to illustrate the point.
    If you're buying brushes from a catalog or online and it's a brand you're not familiar with, check to see if there's an indication of the actual width of the brushes in inches or millimeters. Don't just go by the brush size number.
     

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    Flat Brush

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    A flat brush is, as the name would suggest, one where the bristles are arranged so the brush is quite wide but not very thick. The length of the bristles can vary, with some flat brushes having long and some very short bristles. (The latter is also called a square brush.) When buying a flat brush, look for one where the bristles have a spring to them, or snap back when you bend them gently.

    Not only will a flat brush create a broad brushstroke, but if you turn it so you're leading with the narrow edge, it'll produce thin brushstrokes. A short flat brush is ideal for small, precise brushmarks.

    A flat brush's paint carrying capacity is determined by the bristles it has, and by the length of these. A short-haired, synthetic-bristle flat brush will hold less paint than a long-haired, mixed or natural-hair brush. The flat brush in the photo has got hog hair, which holds paint well and, being stiff, is ideal for leaving brushmarks in paint should you wish to do this.​
     
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    Yashikushi Moderator IL Hall of Fame

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    Round Brush

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    A round paint brush is the most traditional brush shape, and what most people imagine when they think "art paint brush". A decent round brush will come to a lovely sharp point, enabling you to paint fine lines and detail with it. Look for one that's got a good spring in the bristles, where they snap straight when you take the pressure off the brush.

    The round brush in the photo has synthetic hair in it, and didn't have a very fine point even when it was brand new. But I bought it as it would be useful for creating broad brushstrokes as it's very soft and holds a good quantity of fluid paint. Always consider what you intend to do with the brush; don't have unrealistic expectations of it or you'll just frustrate yourself (and blame your tools for poor painting).​
     
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    Rigger Brush / Liner Brush

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    A rigger or liner brush is a thin brush extremely long bristles. These may come to a sharp point, have a flat or square tip, or be angled (as in this photo). Rigger brushes are great for producing fine lines with a consistent width, making them ideal for painting thin branches on trees, boat masts, or cat's whiskers. They're also good for signing your name on a painting.
     
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    Mop Brush

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    As the name "mop" suggests, a mop brush is one that'll hold a large quantity of fluid paint. It's a soft and floppy brush, ideal for large watercolor washes.

    Be sure to spend the time to clean it thoroughly when you're done painting; it's not a job to be rushed on a brush with this much hair!​
     
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    Fan Brush

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    A fan brush is a brush with a thin layer of bristles spread out by the ferrule. A fan brush is commonly used to blend colors, but is also perfect for painting hair, grasses, or thin branches. (Though you need to be careful not to make identical or repetitive marks that look unnatural.)

    Possible uses a fan brush include:
    • Stippling (spread out small dots or short dashes).
    • Highlights in hair as it helps produce the illusion of individual hairs.
    • Smoothing and blending out brush strokes.
    Painting a tree or grass
     
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