Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Salwar,Kameez,Chudidhar, Punjabi,Patiala Instructions

re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Design / Drafting/ Cutting Salwar, Chudidhar, Blouse

Dear Vanaja,
thank you very much for posting the patterns for the various garments, they are a great help. And I have just tried drafting the pattern for myself.

I just have 2small questions... i have drafted a pattern for the Salwar top and it turned out very wide, especially in the armpit area. Is it normal?
The waist line is almost bellow the breast, is that ok?
I have altered it on me to suit my needs and it will be ok, it just surprised me.

I wonder if any of the other ILs have a similar experience with this pattern.

Have a lovely day.
Helena

 

re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Design / Drafting/ Cutting Salwar, Chudidhar, Blouse

Dear Helena,

Nice that you are able to follow my draft.

The measurements are just mathematical calculations. Some people look thin but their arms might be little fatter than the body. So first let us try the pattern on a low quality cloth and later the adjustments and alterations can be done accordingly.

Next time when you draw or cut the armhole do not bend the scissors deep. Drawing the armhole differs from person to person. So take care while cutting the armhole.

The waist length is the area actually where the breast falls. So it is ok.

Once you are used to cut and stitch around 3 salwars you will be familiar with all the adjustments. Good luck.

 

Re: (Sleeves measurement) Please clarify

Yes you are right. It is half of 0 to 3 measurement. Pl do not follow the image markings that accurately. Follow the draft along with the image. Good luck.

 

re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Design / Drafting/ Cutting Salwar, Chudidhar, Blouse

hi vanaja...........
it was like i was searching almost all net to get the cuting pattern of salwar and kameez and atlast i found your qoute ,its really very detailed one and fully explained .Thank you so much for tht and could you pls give me also the cuting pattern of kameez normal with sqaure neck and slits,and it will be nice if you could send me email in my id . Please send Private Message
thnks again

donyrose

 

re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Design / Drafting/ Cutting Salwar, Chudidhar, Blouse

Dear Vanaja,
well, I am quite used to sewing and even drafting patterns for myself, but not of Indian clothes, so I always end up putting darts someplace and punjabi suits just do not seem to have them, so that's why I was so happy for this draft. It is really clear, just the width surprised me, but it took only a little adjustment..
Using a low quality cloth is a common practice, especially for complicated cuts or things from expensive fabrics. I do that quite often.
And yes, I am sure that after making a few more salwars it will be ok.

Do you think that for making churidar bottoms this pattern for the salwar bottom would do... well, after making the calf part more narrow and the overall length longer by about 20cm / 8'' or even longer?... and then cutting the material on the bias?

Thanks again, have a lovely day
Helena

 

re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Design / Drafting/ Cutting Salwar, Chudidhar, Blouse

Dear Helena,

Ok. Many of our ilties have asked for chudi bottom pattern. Right now I have some problems in drawing the pattern as I have to install Photoshop for drawing the pattern. Because my earlier hard disk crashed and I lost data.

So when I am able to install photoshop I shall definitely post the pattern.

BTW for chudi bottom you need to cut the cloth in cross direction as you have gatherings at the bottom. Almost like salwar bottom but with few alterations. I shall post the same asap, I need some time.

 

re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Design / Drafting/ Cutting Salwar, Chudidhar, Blouse

sure, i did not mean to hassle you
Take your time and take care.

 

re: Sewing/Tailoring/Stitching : Design / Drafting/ Cutting Salwar, Chudidhar, Blouse

can anyone help me to give the cutting pattern of kameez normal.i had dne one but the neck n hand area had not came proper.............

donyrose

 

Kurta stitching and cutting

I found these instructions to stitch a Kurta but am a little hesitant about them. Can anyone here correct the instructions? add to them? tell me if i can go ahead and use them?
I find that T-shirts are a little short and would like to stitch my own (slightly longer) kurta (kurti?) to wear over jeans/slacks.
Hoping to hear from one of the very capable ladies in this community...

KURTA



Kurta measurement without stitching … ¼” for seams​

Front piece at shoulder measurement … 2 pieces for front and back
To make the 4 Kalees …
Minus the armhole for length of Kalees (2 pieces)
Add Bust measurement-shoulder and Hip+Daman together to make the total measurement of Kalee.
The upper end of the kalee will be less than the daman end.
With both pieces of Kalee, holding the narrow edge on each side and cut between (on the bias) to separate Kalees.
(Cut in half to give 4 Kalees)
Rumal diamond shaped with broader edge on top

Cut Center Panel:
1^st cut middle panel … front and back.
*To cut neck: fold in middle 3” X 4 1/2 “ (or desired measurement).
*Shape rounded neck by removing ¾ from where the Length and Breadth of neck measurements meet to give it a round shape.
*Shape shoulders at the outer edge (sleeve insert point) ¾”
*Shape back of neck 1” deep
*Cut an 8” panel for button band.
*Cut sleeves, shape at top ¾” and at wrist according to finished measurement desired).

Cut Kalees:
*Take total width top and bottom. (To find total width add remainder from bust to hip measurement)
*Holding the upper and lower measurements fold to form Kalee.
*Cut Rumal either square or diamond shaped (gives better shape to finished Kurta)

To Sew:
First stitch the front button opening.
Fold the panel so that the sides overlap, giving it a neater finish.
Fold in the sides at the bottom for a V finish.
*NOTE* while stitching, remember that the straight sides of kurta go on the OUTSIDE edge.
*Sew Rumal to between two Kalees
*Sew both (Rumal and Kalee) to one side of sleeve as far as the Rumal corner.
*Sew the other Kalee to the Rumal all the way to the ‘Chaak point’.
*Sew the other side of the sleeve also
*Fold all the way down.
*Do the other side the same way
*Next join shoulders
*Join the Kalees to the front panel.

 

Chudidar draft

cutting salwar

salwar part 2