On a pilgrimage with an englishman

I just finished reading ‘A South Indian Journey’ by Michael Wood - journalist, Broadcaster and film maker for BBC. At the end of the 246 pages I had this feeling of awe and satisfaction that Wood himself seems to have undergone. The exquisite details of the temple architecture, the authentic dollops of local history and totally unbiased accounts of the atrocities committed on the great temples by the North Indian Muslim rulers and the British and Dutch colonists make it a veritable treat for people like me – traditionalists with modern views!

Aah! That sounds quite an Oxymoron, eh? Well, as I went through the book, I could identify myself with Mala and later her daughters Jaya and Bharathi who feel that ‘The way forward was to take the best of the modern and keep the best of the past.’ This sentiment is echoed by both Prithvi and Kamala, Wood’s friends in Chennai.

For a bookworm who has been feeding on mainstream books for sometime, this South Indian Journey was a delightful deviation. I had seen the book in Karnataka Book Bureau in Shimogha, where I do my monthly (sometimes fortnightly) shopping for books. I had scanned the synopsis and had been charmed by it, yet, I had put it back and opted to pick a couple of Agatha Christies and Chicklit romances. In fact, I had put back Paulo Coelho’s ‘The winner Stands Alone’ as well. That’s another bias I have to break.

On Teachers’ Day I got a call from Prathibha, an old student of mine who now works for Volvo. She is the kind of student teachers dream of. She has not once forgotten to greet me on Teachers’ Day in the past 13 years. This year, as she knew that I was here in Bhadravathi, she called me early in the morning. She was at the airport waiting for her flight to Hyderabad. We got to talking about what she was reading. To tell the truth, her choice of books are generally different from mine. She is an ardent fan of Paulo Coelho and loves reading all kinds of reflective, motivational and philosophical stuff. Mentally I have not achieved that level of maturity yet.

She told me she had recently read a great book called ‘A South Indian Journey’ and immediately a penny dropped.
“Is it by an Englishman who goes visiting temples in Tamil Nadu?’ I asked. When she asked me if I had read it, I told her I had seen it in the book shop. I carefully avoided admitting that I had rejected it for Mills& Boons and Agatha Christies. She told me the book was wonderful and if I wanted she’d buy me a copy from Bangalore when she returned from her official trip. I hastily said, thank you, but no I was planning to buy it myself on my next visit to Shimogha.



Coming back to the book, it is about Wood who meets Mala, a middle class Vellala Shaivite woman in Chidambaram which he happened to visit with his girlfriend, Rebecca. A wonderful bonding takes place between them and Wood and Rebecca become a part of Mala’s family.

In Mala’s Spartan home in Chidambaram, Wood and Rebecca come across an astrologer, Rajdurai, who prepares and matches their horoscopes. He then predicts their future and advises that Wood undertake a pilgrimage along a prescribed route to overcome certain hurdles in his destiny.

Wood returns to Chidambaram two years later to find that Mala has organized that very journey for him. To humour his friend’s sentiments, he decides to travel go on a pilgrimage. Thus we find them both Visiting the temples in Vaitheeswaran Koil, Rameshwaram, Tiruchendur, KanyaKumari, Sucheendram, Kurtallam, Thirukazhakundram, Madurai, Palani, Thanjavur, Suryanar Koil and Thirunellar.

Wood’s account is replete with sthalapuranams ( local history and legends), elaborate descriptions of the temple architecture, the life of ‘Diksitars’ and the enchanting stories of Hindu gods and goddesses. He does not spare anyone…. Or any detail – the filth, stench and heat of the places he visits, the atrocities committed on temples by the likes of the East India Company, Hyder Ali, and Malik Kafur and the typically quirky and inquisitiveness of average Indians. He also touches briefly on the gamut of political changes in Tamil Nadu wrought by bigwigs like Periyar, Annadurai, MGR, Karunanidhi and Jayalalitha.

When I started reading the book, I was a bit offended by certain phraseology he uses especially to refer to Indian gods. On page 10 he refers to gods and goddesses as ‘many –armed creatures with kohl- dark eyes and dreamy smiles’ and a reference to
‘painted plastic gee-gaws of gods’ which offended my sensibilities. And I got ready do a lot of nit picking while reading Wood and concluded that he deserved a lambasting for such insensitive language.

But as I continued reading, I realized that Wood was anything but insensitive, that he had a way with words…his descriptions and explanations enchanting me and his thoroughness and gift for details mesmerizing me. It was as though I accompanied him and Mala. Though Wood talks about the squalor and stench, he doesn’t sound disparaging. He accepts it and adjusts to it. Nor does he show any qualms about ‘pigging it out’ as the snobbish amongst us might say, staying in spartan lodges and eating in wayside tea-stalls and tiffin rooms. He sounds very resigned about his conjunctivitis and diarrhea bouts, the mosquito bites and the general lack of comforts.

On the whole the book is a treat for people like me- who have heard of these great places of worship but never got a chance to visit them. It gives us a peek into the splendour and past glory and present grandeur of great South Indian temples. It is though Wood has fallen for South Indian God and Godesses, mostly Shaivite Gods and is not unashamed to admit it. The word pictures he spins unfolds a vivid and rich tapestry in our mind’s eye. There are some brilliant cameos – Mala; Rajdurai Diksitar the astrologer, Mala’s father, the Vellala Patriot; Mr. Ramaswamy , the affable organizer of the pilgrimage; Prithvi and Ashwin, the yuppies of Madras all are delightful in their own manner. There are picture perfect descriptions of Madras of the 90’s, of Chidambaram town, Madurai, the lush landscapes of Kourtallam… on the whole, it is a wholesome fare. A splendid offering for indophiles from a certified ‘South- Indophile’, Michael Wood.

Dear Twinsmom,
You have presented a delightful review of the book by Michael Wood.In fact about 7 years back my wife and I undertook the same route by road all by ourselves.On an average we covered about 8 temples a day starting from AShram in Pondicherry and finishing at Tiruchendur.It took us 12 days and the beauty of the journey was that we decided the route and stay every evening.It was a highly spiritual and satisfying trip.I will buy this book one of these days and enjoy the journey in the comfort of my home.
Regards
LAKSHIMINARAYANAN

HI Twinsmom:

You have given such a wonderful review of the book that I want go out and buy the book right away.

While I am not partial to British authors, I immensely enjoy their English usage, there is a certain charm about the way they write. I am reading William Dalrymple's Age of Kali and other stories and have been enjoying it thoroughly!

So this book would have to wait in the queue!

Thanks
Sindhu

Dear Sri. Lakshmi Narayanan,
How wonderful! So your wife and you went along the same route...You will really be able to relate better to the book then. I wish to go on this route too. God knows when!

Hello Sindhu,
Do tell me what Age of Kali is all about. I am yet to read a Dalrymple. At the moment I have Paul Brunton's A Search in Secret India ( search for a guru). Have you read any other Dalrymple?

Hi twinsmom,

I am motivated by your lovely review of the book to check out if my local library carries this book.
Like Sindhu has rightly said, I too think that British authors have a classy style of writing.

Hello Usha,

Do get a copy... It is a very interesting book. Is your library a good one? I don't even have one here. So I end up buying books from the bookshop in a nearby town.

Twinsmom,

my local library doesn't carry a copy, but I have placed a request through their inter-library loan. It might take a while to get the copy. If I really like it, I might buy it later.

Originally Posted by twinsmom

Hello Sindhu,
Do tell me what Age of Kali is all about. I am yet to read a Dalrymple. At the moment I have Paul Brunton's A Search in Secret India ( search for a guru). Have you read any other Dalrymple?

So how is 'a Search in Secret India'? Would like to mention here - Holy Cow a book by Sarah Mcdonald about the author's search for spiritual enlightenment. Wouldn't say it is a great book but going by the title you mentioned I thought the 2 books maybe on similar lines (in search of enlightenment).

Age of Kali is a book of short stories about Dalrymple's travels through India. This is the first book of his I am reading and have made my way through 2 stories - one about Lucknow and the other about Patna. I am enjoying his writing but in no great hurry to finish!

Dalrymple has written a book called the Last Mughal. Haven't read a review on it. Recently read an article of his on the relevance of travel writing these days - quite interesting. While I was browsing the net, I found his website which is quite exciting for me.

Sindhu